It's funny how things work out sometimes, we had this tutorial planned for next week but along came the Great British Sewing Bee and obviously copied our idea ;) Today we're showing you how to insert an invisible zip, not the 'traditional' way but the Remnant Kings way! There are no pins and no fuss with this easy guide. It all started when we made a trial version of Tilly & The Buttons Francoise Dress for our up-coming class. Knowing that invisible zips can be tricky we thought we'd better explain how we do them.
We always put our zips in before closing the seam it's being inserted in to, so make sure you haven't already done this.
Step 1. Line up the edge of your zip to the edge of your fabric.
Step 2. With them lined up, sew an anchoring stitch on the zip (like a basting stitch but without changing your regular stitch length) about 5mm away from the edge of the zip and fabric. This means the zip will be firmly in place and won't be able to pull when stitching it in properly.
You can see on the back how closely to the edge we've stitched:
Step 3. Now that the fabric and zip are secure, it's time for the awkward part. Invisible zips have 3 weave patterns between the edge and teeth (this didn't photograph terribly well which is why it isn't illustrated), for the best results, you want to stitch in the weave that is narrowest and hidden by the teeth.
To do this, you need to uncurl the zip as you stitch it in. Here's a video to demonstrate.
Step 4. Repeat for the other side of the zip. This should now be your zip firmly in place and most definitely invisible! You should have two lines of stitching approximately like these:
Check that you haven't sown too closely by opening and closing the zip a couple of times.
Step 5. It's time to close the seam. We normally start about an inch above where the zip ends and keep our invisible zip foot in place to get close alongside the zip. This stops the bunching and ends up allowing the same seam allowance of the zip.
And that's it! An easy, effective way to insert an invisible zip. If you'd like to give it a try we have a full range of invisible zips in all colours and sizes. Why not try the Francoise dress and join us at our class? What ever you make, remember to share it with us on your favourite social media: